For the Love of Microbrands
Let’s begin with a shameless plug: in addition to Ghost & Crown, I write for The Time Bum, a site dedicated to watch news and reviews with a particular emphasis on microbrands. The Time Bum was instrumental in my personal watch journey, and I highly recommend you visit that site for watch reviews and news, as well. You may be asking yourself what a microbrand is, so let’s dive in.
For most watch collectors, the journey begins with the obvious: Seiko, Timex, Bulova, or perhaps a fashion watch. It could begin with an heirloom piece or a gift from a relative. Maybe it’s something expensive to celebrate a milestone, like a Rolex, Longines, or Grand Seiko. Maybe it’s a fashion watch picked up from a drugstore. For some people that’s where the journey ends, too: you have a tool/accessory and you’re happy. You wear it until it breaks.
For some, it’s the beginning of something. Let’s use a diplomatic term for addiction and call it a lifelong passion. Some folks are single brand completionists who cover the entirety of a brand. Some are collectors of a particular style of watch, like dive watches. Others, like me, jump around and buy whatever scratches the itch.
In this age of direct sale online shopping, it’s almost inevitable that you’ll come across a microbrand, whether on Instagram, a watch collector forum, or through an ad. Initial reactions may vary. After all, they don’t have the brand cachet of a household name like Seiko, Rolex, or the other Olde Brandes. They almost invariably will not make a profit when resold, discouraging watch investors (its own article topic, to be sure). So why explore them?
I have three principal reasons why I love microbrands just as much as the more established watch houses: design, value, and relationship.
Design:
It’s a fallacy in this day and age to say the big brands aren’t taking chances on creative design. It’s a brilliant time to be a watch enthusiast regardless of budget or preference. That said, many microbrands are doing some wild things, and they can afford to try, as they keep their overhead low and don’t have to worry about alienating an established fanbase. Some of the most eye-catching designs, colors, and innovations I’ve seen are coming out of the microbrand space. It’s not just about the most far-out designs, either. Some of them are creating timeless pieces that echo classic design language while adding modern touches, and doing so even better than some of the heritage reissues coming out of the big brands’ catalogs (which I also love, admittedly).
Value:
Again, I’m not talking about investment pieces here. While occasionally a scarce microbrand watch will generate secondary market value among serious collectors, that’s rare and quite the gamble. Rather, I’m talking about the concept of the watch you get for the money. Most microbrands use third-party movements from Seiko, Miyota, or Sellita, while a few of the larger ones do produce their own. Those using third-party, off-the-shelf movements can afford to keep their prices lower while focusing on case finishing, meaning you can get a beautifully manufactured piece for a fraction of the cost of a comparable competitor from a larger brand. An ancillary benefit of the third-party movements is also the service cost. Those Miyotas and Seikos are quite affordable to have serviced or even replaced by a skilled local watchmaker.
The Galvin Watch Company Alku, a gorgeous and simple three-handed dress watch with a fun peach sunray dial.
Relationship:
Now, this one is a little harder to define, but it’s important at least to me. I’ve bought a lot of watches, both for myself and for others, and there is a huge difference in the experience between buying from one of the large faceless corporations and one of the microbrands. There are exceptions to the rule, such as the wonderful relationship you can establish with a luxury brand’s authorized dealer, but that takes time and often quite a bit of money. With microbrands you are dealing with companies often run by only a few people, or perhaps even just one, for whom your purchase means a great deal. They are heavily engaged in the watch community on social media, often reaching out personally to ensure satisfaction, and there is something very touching and special about opening up a new watch to find a hand-written note of thanks from someone you know personally, even if only from afar. To me, there is no substitute for that.
There is an unquestionable sense of discovery when dealing with the microbrand world. There are just so many, from so many corners of the globe, there is guaranteed to be one that suits your taste. In fact, that is where I would say my watch collection went from a casual hobby to a true passion. I stumbled upon the microbrand world and fell through a portal, it seemed, winding up in a place where all things were possible. It’s what got me started on the Ghost & Crown endeavor, as well, in order to help bring people together with the watches that resonate with them.
So the next time you’re shopping for a watch, whether it’s with us or on your own, consider going off the beaten path. You won’t be disappointed.
